Sorry for the radio silence, but I’ve been in Turkey for the last two weeks. Battling foreign language keyboards and ancient internet hook ups is near impossible after a day of walking under the sun, but I have an old fashioned notebook filled with things to share. Let’s start with some Turkey basics.
Deodorant is not a cultural norm.
Kebabs rotate on every street corner and can cost as little as 1 TYL (70¢).
The Islamic call to prayer can be heard five times a day- everywhere.
A Turkish breakfast.
Many women wear veils.
Bus attendants wear bowties.
Turks drink tea from rose shaped glasses- all day long.
Baklava is addictive- I had two pieces a night for two weeks.
“The food wasn’t as good as I thought it would be…”
Wait a sec. did my heart just stop?
Scores of tourists return from Italian vacations disappointed with the food and I’m not surprised.Imagine going to New York City and only eating in Times Square!Restaurants near tourists attractions with menus in English are convenient but they won’t give you the flavor you’re looking for.
To get the best food tips you’ve got to talk to the locals but not everyone likes to spend their vacation begging restaurant recommendations from big-bellied old timers, like I do, so I’ve compiled a list of five of my favorite places to eat in Rome.This list is a result of tons of delicious research, so print it out, and put in your suitcase reassured that you won’t return home on an empty stomach.
Pompi
Nicknamed the king of tiramisu, this place lives up to its reputation.Strawberry tiramisu is made with fresh strawberries, whipped cream and light mascarpone .Living in that neighborhood for a few months, Pompei’s fresh, cornetti got me out of bed every morning. These Italian cousins of the croissant filled with chocolate or cream are best before 10am when they’re still hot from the oven.
Pompi
via Albalonga 7b/9/11
+39 06 58 0099
Hours 6:30 am -1:30 am Closed Mondays
Metro Stop: Rei di Roma
Nuova Cittá
Need a break from pizza and pasta?Try some Italian style Chinese food.The neighborhood isn’t much to look at, but a trip to Nuova Cittá means a break from the crowds and a tasty inexpensive meal.Be sure to try the involtini primavera (spring rolls) ravioli al vapore (steamed dumplings).
Nuova Cittá
via Furio Camillo, 70/72
+39 06 7803578
Hours: 11:00am-3:00pm 6:00pm-12:00pm
Metro Stop: Furio Camillo
Boccione
A trip to the Jewish ghetto isn’t complete without a visit to Boccione. Famous for their light macaroons, the ancient oven was on the fritz on my most recent visit.With hundreds of years in business, one bad day can’t tarnish their reputation.Try the ricotta cake and marzipan.
After braving the lines at Saint Peter’s Basilica, treat yourself to one of the best gelatos in Rome.Just two blocks over and one block up from the obelisk, Captain Cono stands just outside the tourist trap zone.Be sure to try cookies, pronounced koo-kees, and kinder, named after the famous German chocolate.
Captain Cono
via di Porta Cavalleggeri, 117
Hours: Sunday- Saturday 10:00am-9:00pm
Near: Saint Peter’s
Pizzeria Marmi
For a real taste of Roman style cooking, you’ve got to visit the morgue.Large marble slab tables give this pizzeria its morbid nickname.Deep fried zucchini flowers and deep fried meat covered olives are top sellers.Maybe it’s called the morgue for another reason.This place is perfect for late night dining serving pizza and bruschetta well after midnight.
DINING IN The best was to experience Italian cuisine is in a home kitchen. If you find yourself behind the stove, make authenticity simple with some local produce.
Fagolini Thin, crisp, and sweet- cook this flavorful string bean cousin in salty boiling water to maintain its beautiful green hue.
Lemons
Softball sized lemons in the South of Italy are as sour as their Northern counterparts, but are cool to look at and yield a lot more juice.
Tomatoes
Take a whiff and you’ll notice something different about the tomatoes in Italy. Often sold fresh on the vine, they have a sweet/tang to match their earthy scent.
MEAL ON THE RUNInexpensive and accessible, supermarkets are fantastic destinations for the impromptu meal. Try a couple of these Italian household staples for a simple meal worth talking about.
Pizza Bianca Lighter than focaccia, white pizza is sprinkled with salt and dressed with olive oil. You can often find it still warm from the oven and like pizza al taglio, you can select the exact amount you want and pay by weight.
Prosciutto Cotto Does the shiny coat and gummy texture of the average aged prosciutto turn you off? Try the more accessible prosciutto cotto. Fully cooked with a more Easter Ham like texture, it’s also a big hit with kids.
Muller Bianco
It may just look like yogurt, but this German import is creamy, not too sweet and gets better with every bite. Try the coconut, hazelnut, or pineapple flavors for something with a little more kick.
Mozzarella di Bufala
Made from the milk of the Asian water buffalo, this cheese is richer than the mozzarella you’re used to. The four Euro price tag for an orange-sized ball may feel unsettling, but a single taste of its delicately spun layers will make your worries melt.
TAKE AWAY Fruits and veggies are forbidden, but you can still pack plenty of other Italian treats to take home. These are my favorite suitcase stowaways.
Pasta
Chalk it up to terroir, the pasta in Italy does not taste the same as what you’ll get at home. It also has a long shelf life, travels well and you’ll find shapes that even Italians have trouble identifying.
Parmigiano Reggiano
You did not go all the way to Italy to return home and eat that sprinkle cheese from a green can. Parmesan is less expensive in Italy and lasts in your fridge for months. There really is no good excuse to go home without it and every bite will be a savory reminder of your trip.
Knorr Granulated Broth Ice cube trays of frozen stock may not line your freezer, but this instant broth from Knorr is the next best thing.
Pan di Stelle You may find the supermarket is fresh out of these crispy chocolate cookies. Crack a cabinet in any Italian kitchen and that’s where you’ll find them. Like the Oreo of Italia, a bag of these would make a nice gift for your office buddies and an even better snack for your flight home.
Fly to Italy for as little as $350 round trip.AIitalia offers discounts year-round so get in the habit of checking their site and you’ll be sure to find a deal.
Avoid visiting in August when the entire country closes its doors for a month of vacation.
Skip the monolithic line for the Vatican Museums.An extra four Euros will get you an assigned time with no waiting.Click here for museum website.
Spend an hour or two in Amalfi, for bragging rights, then take the twenty-minute bus ride to Ravello. Amalfi’s neighbor in the hills boasts the same beautiful views with fewer tourists, fresher air and plenty of room to walk around.
Get intimate with Italy and visit a less traveled locale like the island of Procida.You’ll find great food and kind people without all the expense and hype of neighboring Capri.
Keep an eye out for apperativo offers.Purchase a single drink and many Italian bars will include a small buffet of pastas, salamis, cheeses, and bread that can easily replace dinner for a fraction of the cost.Ask someone at your hotel or hostel for a recommendation if you can’t find one on your own.
Pizza al Taglio (pizza by the slice) is another tasty-inexpensive -option for lunch or dinner.Unlike slices in the states, you can specify exactly how much you want and pay by weight.After a quick reheat, the pizza is folded and wrapped for a meal on the run that won’t get your hands dirty.
Roadside meals in the states may turn your stomach, but in Italy a highway rest stop is an opportunity to sample regional specialties.AUTOGRILL is a restaurant chain that offers stuffed sandwiches and breakfast pastries that have won praise from top chef Mario Batali.
Drink cheap wine.Supermarkets are busting with two to three Euro wines that are kind to the wallet and palate alike.
If you’re lucky you could also find a local wine producer who will let you fill your own container from a large storage vat-Pinot Nero from a Pepsi bottle anyone?
Italian supermarkets and vegetable stands are also great for sampling the local fare.Come back to travelingtastebuds Thursday for an introduction to Italian products that will top your shopping list.
For the next couple of weeks, I won’t be posting because I’ll be in Italy! I will return on the 19th with a list of must-eat spots in Rome, so get ready for everything from macaroons to Italian style Chinese food.
Either you’re going to Italy yourself this summer or you know someone who is, so come back to travelingtastebuds for the culture tips and food recommendations that will push your vacation way beyond average.